Al fresco lunch at the Delaire Graff Estate

Recently I’ve been lucky enough to be treated to a leisurely lunch at Delaire in the Stellenbosch Winelands about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. Owned by Laurence Graff from Graff Diamonds International, the Delaire Graff setup is a bold statement of luxury, from the lodges and spa through to the winelands restaurant.

The drive out there was an experience in itself, scarf wafting in the summer breeze from the passenger seat of a classic Beetle Cabriolet. I felt a bit like Audrey Hepburn. On arrival at the swanky Delaire Graff Estate right at the top of the Helshoogte Pass, the whole parking lot was parked up with Ferraris. As though the view from up there is not enough to take one’s breath away.

By the time I was done jaw dropping my friends had already ordered a bottle of Delaire Cabernet Franc rosé, an elegant Provence pink wine choice. All berries and spice, with just the refreshing kind of crisp needed after the sunshine drive. I was delighted to see ingredients like spatzle and kohlrabi on the menu, some of my favourite treats when making a trip to Germany. Here it’s all fused with fresh local produce and a lot of flair.

I settle on the roast chicken for mains. It arrives on a bed of risotto with some artichokes and kohlrabi on the side. The portion is fulfilling and satisfying and I’m glad I decided to skip starters. The rosé wine offered a lovely understated pairing. There was a tiny spot left in my stomach for a bit of pistachio nougat dessert served with rose geranium ice-cream. I’m not a typical sweet tooth but this was certainly the highlight of my meal. By the time we left I still had some lovely Turkish delight flavours lingering on my tongue.

While lunch at Delaire is probably one of the most expensive meals you’ll have in and around Cape Town it is certainly worth every cent. The view from the restaurant terrace is the most beautiful you’ll find in all of the Cape Winelands, the landscaping and architecture of the estate is exquisite, the menu is really interesting and the food and wine is just, well, another reason to fall in love with Cape Town.

The Crystal Towers' eternity pool of wonder

Those who know me well would be aware of my enchantment with the eternity pool (also known as an infinity pool). I love how it creates the visual effect of still water reaching right into to the edge of the view as though merging with the horizon. This is especially effective with an ocean view, when it looks like the swimming pool extends into infinity.

Imagine my delight in spending an afternoon with the girls lazing about in the eternity pool at the Crystal Towers Hotel and Spa in Cape Town. I say ‘in’ the eternity pool because at the Crystal Towers they put sun loungers inside the pool, so it’s possible to catch a tan in the middle of the water to an eternity view of Table Mountain. What's more, Table Mountain was recently voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. So being struck by the wonder of it all was not too OTT.

So there I am lounging in the African sunshine, dipping my MAC pink toe nails in the water while sipping on a Cosmopolitan that smells of orange zest. Having the Crystal Towers Spa in such close vicinity makes it easy to pop in for a quick massage or facial and then continue the marathon catch-up session with the girls. As usual this includes all the drama and the scandal; dating, dreams and joy - stuff soapies are made of. Wink.

What makes the Crystal Towers spa especially suitable for a girly outing is their Turkish rasul and floatation chamber. The rasul is a communal treatment room all done up in mosaics and filled with aromatheraphy infused steam. You cover your whole body with a sort of mineralized clay and then just relax in there. At the end of the treatment a rain shower comes down in order to wash off the clay and invigorate you after the treatment.

The floatation chamber, in turn, is a dim lit room with a high salt content pool in which you float same as in the Dead Sea. It is super relaxing and apparently has the same holistic effect on the body as a few hours of good sleep. I think spending the afternoon with beautiful friends in an eternity pool with a view of Table Mountain has some especially wonderful effects too. Only question is, when do we do this again?

Rodrigues in restaurants

With its rich volcanic soil and abundant coastline, Rodrigues Island is blessed with a diverse amount of fresh produce. Combined with a healthy dose of French, Indian and Chinese influence, its no wonder that this African island is home to a selection of memorable restaurants. Here are some favourites.

Coralie La Difference

Set on a cliff overlooking the lagoon, Coralie La Difference offers the best view in all of Rodrigues. The menu includes a good selection of local cuisine, served with European flair. Try the octopus curry with coconut cream, its magnificent.

Cases a Gardenias

Marie-line’s table d’hôte (a set menu served in a home atmosphere) is created with a fine sense for French cooking and a creative slant on Rodriguan favourites. It is also just the place for foodies to discover home made fruit wines, preserves and garden honey.

La Belle Rodriguaise

With an open plan barbecue set-up right on the beach, this is an idyllic place to dig your feet into the sand, sip on a rum cocktail and wait for the crayfish to come off the fire. The restaurant up at the guesthouse also offers a great view of the Graviers area.

The restaurant at the Morouk Ebony hotel

While local favourites are also celebrated at the Morouk Ebony hotel, this is probably the best place on Rodrigues Island to enjoy European style cuisine. The chef’s creations will surprise and delight. Do ask about their picnic options for an island excursion.

Villa mon Tresor

The best part of dining at the pink villa in Anse Aux Aglais is the absolute passion for food that radiates from the hostess Marie-Louise. If you ask nicely and spend some time in her homely kitchen she might even share a cooking secret or two.

Bambou Restou

Perfect for an afternoon apéro while watching the sunset, you might find yourself lingering at this atmospheric restaurant bar much longer than planned. The pizza with ‘secret ingredients’ will see you through and provide a fun conversation topic.

Chez Madame La Rose

Known for making the best traditional octopus salad on Rodrigues Island, Chez Madame La Rose will quickly win over your heart with a quaint little garden terrace and seasonal meals. The lady herself is a quite a beautiful presence too.

Lunchtime heart to heart at Chez Madame La Rose

Lunch conversation at Chez Madame La Rose revolves around love. It seems that on Rodrigues island no one ever tires of this topic. I guess its no surprise really, since any human being who slows down to Indian Ocean island pace and finds a point of stillness will inevitably realize that love is the reason for being.

We’re sitting on a small garden terrace awaiting the traditional Rodriguan delights from this home style kitchen and the general tone of our chat takes a course towards love lost. Over a sliced octopus salad with spring onion and vinaigrette, Jean-Paul, Madame la Rose and I talk about past and current relationships and laugh off all the bullshit that is out there.

We make the following conclusions:

1) Too many people are rushing after money and in the process miss out on opportunities in life that could have brought true happiness. 

Lesson: never make decisions based on money.

2) Others are so damaged from past hurts that they are unable to open their hearts again and instead go around spreading the pain. 

Lesson: there could be even greater happiness out there for those with the courage to take a risk.

3) People lie, creating illusions in order to gain a false sense of control and take advantage of others. 

Lesson: don't trust anyone until you have a good sense of their character.

4) We just don't love ourselves enough to stand up to constant rejection and in the process become needy and desperate. 

Lesson: we have to realise that we are unique and amazing and if someone chooses to walk away its their loss.

We sure manage to make a mockery of love on this earth. Divorce, deceit, porn, oppression and instant sex – people steal each others lives for their own personal pleasure. I’m sorry for highlighting this bitter truth but perhaps I've just seen too much. The romantic in me just doesn’t get it. I’m tired, as tired of being alone as Madame la Rose and just as haunted by disappointment and unreciprocated love.

For today we find comfort in the rich and spicy grilled fish with tomato sauce and relish the red beans with basmati and mashed pumpkin. The garnishes of fried aubergine and chili paste provide the perfect little rush of flavour. There sure is a bit of love in good food and long baths. And then there is that lullaby of a view that is the Rodrigues lagoon, a sight to soothe sore hearts and provide a vision of hope for the future.

The Francois Leguat Nature Reserve: a dream of paradise

“In the beginning it was like a fantasy, a dream. You start with an idea and if you believe in it then you go ahead and do it. Could we recreate the Rodrigues from all those years ago when it was still uninhabited by man?”

I am chatting to Aurele Anqueti André, Reserve Manager of the Francois Leguat Giant Tortoise and Cave Reserve on Rodrigues Island in the Indian Ocean. Here a hopeful attempt is being made to reintroduce various indigenous species on 19 hectares of reserve land. Aurele is inspired by the writings of French Hugenot Francois Leguat, whose descriptions of early 18^th century adventures around the Mascarene Islands evoke vivid images of an original tropical paradise.

Leguat’s prose is a detailed account of birds and plants found on Rodrigues Island and specifically talks about encounters with 2000 to 3000 “land turtles” or tortoises. Titled A new voyage to the East-Indies, the publication mentions such an abundance of tortoises that Leguat and his group could only cross certain valleys by taking a hundred steps over their carapaces "without setting foot on the ground.”

The original saddle-backed Rodrigues giant tortoises were hunted to provide meat for sea journeys and over-exploitation finally led to extinction. However, two species of giant tortoise has been reintroduced at the Francois Leguat Nature Reserve and the aspiration is that evolution will take its course, as it once has. Centuries ago, tortoises used to drift along the sea currents and that is how they originally spread across the Mascarenes and evolved to form various local species. Between the radiated tortoises from Madagascar and tortoises from Aldabra in the Seychelles, there are now over a 1000 giant tortoises living in the reserve. While some are carefully watched in enclosed camps others prefer the freedom of the reintroduced native flora. The latter rebels of the reserve also like to pose for cheeky photographs, as above.

Over 100 000 replanted indigenous trees has so far adapted well at the reserve and helps to overcome Rodrigues' deforestation issues of the past. Aurele’s eyes shine at the prospect of how the Francois Leguat reserve will evolve in future: “There are various scientists and sponsors involved and a lot of research is being done in order to closely recreate the original ecosystem.”

As we walk through the beautifully lit lime stone caves on the reserve our guide Corinne points out fossils of the original giant tortoises as well as the Solitaire and other birds of paradise. By the time I get to the insightful museum and ponder an artist's interpretation of Leguat's enchanted descriptions, I feel moved by the possibilities of this project and quench my awe with some ice cold lemon juice at the scenic museum café. Cheers to Aurele and the Francois Leguat Giant Tortoise and Cave Reserve!

Rodrigues island party VIP

Willy Auguste, Managing Director of the Mourouk Ebony Hotel, is known to throw some of the best private parties on Rodrigues Island and I am lucky enough to be invited. I arrive at the same time as my kite surfing instructor who stops in his tracks to tell me how beautiful I look.

With such an abundance of respectful charm, it’s a pleasure being a single woman on Rodrigues. We sit down at the bar for a rum cocktail while we wait for the rest of the guests to arrive. I am not generally known for being super punctual, but island time puts a whole new spin on fashionably late.

All the VIPs on the island eventually arrive for the buffet style feast. My driver (and by now very entertaining island guide) Jean-Paul is very excited to tell me about the conou-conou – a shellfish salad said to have 'wink-wink' aphrodisiac properties. There is certainly a whole lot of seafood and fresh-fresh produce prepared in traditional styles. Octopus salad, salt and pepper calamari, grilled fish, pork curry, red beans, salads and pickles... it’s a great selection of all the best dishes on the island.

Besides the local buffet, the Mourouk Ebony hotel also offers a great European style a la carte menu. The food here is exceptional every day and during my time here I have especially enjoyed the aubergine millefeuille starter, a rich and wholesome vegetable dish which will remain firmly etched in my culinary memory.

Soon the sega band starts playing and we enjoy a show of traditional dancing complete with colourful colonial style island skirts. Later the dancers pick guests as partners and the party gets in full swing. I enjoy all the hip shaking involved with sega dancing and get a round of applause from the rest of the guests at my table. After a week of enjoying some incredible experiences and finding my balance again, all of this fun makes me overflow with joy.

The cocktails are flowing freely and all the who's who on the island are shaking it up on the dance floor, from Willie himself, to the diving instructors, politicians and restaurant owners. I end up dancing with a beautiful French man deep into the night and the fun conversation challenges my perception that all Parisians are rude and generally disgruntled. Perhaps his time living on Reunion has eased up all the big city stereotypes. These Indian Ocean islands have a way of bringing the best out of people indeed.